Steering Head Bearings Fitment Guide


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Pyramid Parts Steering Bearing Replacement Guide.


Steering Head Bearings, steering stem bearings, head stalk bearings, neck bearings Triple Tree bearings....whatever you would like to call them will need replaced from time to time. If you feel that your front end is ‘slack’ or steering feels a bit like you are riding with a flat tyre then it is more than likely your steering head bearings will need replaced. The job is not as daunting as you may think and hopefully this guide will help. Whether your bike is fitted with the older style (also cheaper as some manufacturers still fit them) loose ball bearings (A) or caged bearings (B) our Steering Head Bearings kits are designed to be a direct replacement, much easier to fit and will greatly upgrade your steering performance. We only supply high quality Taper Roller bearings (C) in our kits. Not only are they far superior to loose ball bearing or caged roller bearings but they last a lot longer. In general we only supply NTN or Koyo bearings in our kits.



We stock Steering Bearing Kits for all motorcycles, Buy Here

Types of headstalk bearings



Loose Ball Bearings & Shells A Caged Ball Bearings B Taper Roller Bearings C


Pyramid Parts Kit Includes:-


1. Top taper bearing

2. Bottom Taper Bearing

3. Top and bottom seals

4. Fitment grease.



Below is a general Steering Stem layout showing the Yoke/Triple Tree. Models will vary but all are based on same principal.


Fitting Instructions (once forks have been removed):-

1. Remove the top yoke by undoing the large nut on the top (A), and (if fitted) the bolt that goes through (B) and the allen/bolts on the sides (C) Tap/lift the top yoke off.

2. Once the top yoke is off, undo the castellated nut and lift off the nut and top cap/washer.

3. Lift off top taper bearing and washer (or if loose ball bearings are fitted lift off top shell and remove loose ball bearings). Remove yoke shaft from frame by sliding it out of the bottom of the frame (if loose ball bearings were fitted the bottom ones may fall out and bounce around your garage floor, (best place for them!)

4. Tap out the bearing shells from the frame. Usually a brass drift/rod, with one side chamfered flat is good for this, work from the inside of the frame tapping gently and evenly round the outer edge of the shells until the shells tap out.


5. Once the shells are tapped out degrease and clean out the inside of the headstalk.

6. If loose ball bearings were originally fitted Tap off the bottom bearing shell from the yoke shaft, this is a press fit so will take a bit of tapping, if you are careful you can grind it off. If you tap it off with a chisel evenly it will eventually come off. If your bike previously had taper bearings fitted then tap off the old taper bearing and seal in the same way.


7. Clean and degrease the yoke shaft.

8. Put the bottom bearing seal onto the yoke shaft (cupping upwards). Grease the bearing and slide down the yoke shaft and centre on to the seal/washer.

9. Lightly grease the top and bottom bearing shells and evenly tap them into the frame headstalk (top and bottom). Make sure they are fully tapped into the frame until they stop. Note: Always tap them in evenly and steadily, a large socket on the outer edge of the bearing shell can help tap it in. You can also tap them in using a wooden block.


10. Present the bottom yoke/shaft (with bottom bearing and seal fitted) back up into the frame until the yoke shaft sticks out of the top of the frame and the bottom bearing engages with its shell(in the frame), lightly grease and drop over the top of the yoke shaft the top bearing until it sits nicely in its shell.

11. Put on the top bearing seal cupping downwards (not always needed) over the top taper bearing and put on the top cap and nut (in the order you removed it) and tighten it up. Turn the bottom yoke side to side as you get near the final tightening turns to make sure all is running free, repeat this once tight. Put on the top yoke and tighten it on fully to the required torque.

12. Re-assemble the front forks etc. in the reverse order you took them off.

13. If fitted correctly your front steering should glide from left to right very smoothly.

Note: Once all together and after the first 100km or so it is good practice to re-tighten up the castellated nut on the top of the yoke as over this time the bearings will bed in/seat and grease will disperse allowing for some potential slack movement, this is standard.

Should you need any further assistance please ask one of the Pyramid Parts technical staff.